As revivalist dressing tightens its grip on fashion, with designers referencing trends from the 1990s, Y2K and — soon to follow — the so-called Indie Sleaze of the 2010s, the autumn/winter collections provide some reprieve: a demure undercurrent in which hemlines drop, necklines go high and more “classic” silhouettes come to the fore.
For every Miu Miu-inspired micro mini at the shows last February there was a New Look-style full skirt: Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta debut included mid-length leather versions in purple or bright yellow; Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons paired grey and black skirts with tonal sweaters at Prada; while at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri co-ordinated traditional Bar jackets with calf-grazing pleated styles.
At Patou, designer Guillaume Henry took the sportswear codes established by the brand’s namesake in the 1920s and contradicted them with full, quilted skirts, roll-necks and layers of gold chains. “This collection is about movement, freedom and the idea of comfort all at the same time. I wanted to offer many options to a woman that wants to feel confident in what she’s wearing, while feeling at ease,” Patou says.