Even at the height of summer, the Renewal Center, a nondescript building on the edge of Shanghai, can still draw a crowd. But its most enthusiastic attendance tends to come around China’s New Year, an event, like Christmas, that is normally spent with the family.
On a cold morning in January the cooks are already busy at work. Aside from the free meals of rice, vegetables and meat, which will be served to all guests, registered or otherwise, from 10.30am, red packets with a small amount of money inside are carefully laid out on a table.
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