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The battle for France’s cities sets the stage for presidential showdown

Political trends set to shape next year’s pivotal vote are on display in this month’s municipal elections

As the mayor of Guérande in western France, Nicolas Criaud helped secure €10mn to renovate the town’s medieval church, which needed repairs from the roof to the stained-glass windows after a century of neglect.

The Collégiale Saint-Aubin is among Criaud’s most visible achievements in the town of about 17,000 famous for its salt marshes. Yet as the former entrepreneur seeks re-election, he says many voters are focusing instead on shortages of doctors, high heating bills and classroom closures: issues the mayor has no control over.

“When a mayor walks down the street, he is rarely thanked: instead he is told of all the dysfunction,” says Criaud, of the centre-right Horizons party. “We are the last rampart. People need to express their frustrations to us, even if it is in inappropriate, angry ways.”

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