The feverish heat of the past few months has finally softened in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. Along the Mtkvari river that slices through the city, the trees, their leaves beginning to curl, flutter in a weak evening breeze.
On my way home one evening, I pass a popular restaurant with a sign pinned to the door announcing that patrons who do not consider Russia an occupying force and Vladimir Putin a war criminal will be denied entry. The lettering has faded so much from the sun that it’s barely legible any more, but I know what it says. Signs like these have been stuck to doors and windows across Tbilisi since February.
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