Cut from a different cloth
奢侈品新招——独一无二的面料


为确保奢侈品的极端品质和不可模仿性,各大奢侈品公司加大对面料的投资,从繁复的古老手工艺到新材料新技术纷纷上场。供不应求的销售数据证明,这一招很有效。

It was two seasons ago that Miuccia Prada set the ball rolling in her usual way. For the autumn of 2007 she wowed crowds not with elaborate cuts or silhouettes, but with a textiles extravaganza: plasticised and boiled mohairs, Shetland satin – a jaw-dropping fabric that fades from puckered rich silk to dense wool in one sheet – and hand-painted treated wool coats. It's a path she's continued on in subsequent collections via romantic organza prints by artist James Jean, to this autumn's artisanal lace.

“对我来说,面料在设计上占去了90%的脑力劳动。”她表示,“这是我花时间最多的环节,因为面料的质量是根本。选好了面料,也就搞定了时装展,我心里就轻松了。”

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