“You've got to be able to run up stairs and chase down taxis,” says Johanna Waterous, a former McKinsey & Company executive who now sits on the board of several companies. “I see programmes like Lipstick Jungle, where the women walk around in 5in heels, with outrageous jewellery and low necklines. That isn't practical.”
Laura Mannix, studio services coordinator for Barneys New York since 1995, helps both big city professionals and TV costume designers assemble their workplace wardrobes. She says the current environment demands dark colours, sensible hemlines and heel heights, and minimal jewellery. This season, for example, Mannix says her “real world” clients are going back to basics. “They're a little more serious and a little less playful”. They are shying away from the full skirts, fur collars and bright colours of years past in favour of conservative yet original clothes. Roxanne Davies, a director with Parly Company, a Geneva-based money management firm, agrees. She favours a midnight blue pinstriped suit paired with a fitted satin shirt and black patent heels for her professional life.
According to Britt Lintner, a London-based hedge fund manager who also designs a line of chic, work-appropriate dresses and separates in her spare time, the rules are simple: “Stick to muted colours, avoid being too sexy, and never over-accessorise.”
The women featured in Lipstick Jungle, a drama series that follows the careers of three high-powered New York females, break each of these rules every week. But the show's stylist, Amanda Ross, doesn't think their attire ever veers towards the inappropriate. “I dressed the characters on the show to look polished and impeccably groomed,” says Ross, who does acknowledge that the series occasionally “goes to extremes with layering and accessorising” to connect with viewers' “wish fulfilment”. In other words, some of the looks on the show aim for the aspirational rather than the authentic. Ross also admits that the clothes on Lipstick Jungle are more colourful than those you might find in real life, since medium and bright colours play better on television screens.
And then there is the question – or rather the problem – of how the clothes fit, since the difference between overly snug and appropriately fitted may make the difference between landing a job or being shown the door. “The last thing I want to play to is sex appeal,” says Ida Liu, head of the fashion retail group in Citibank's private banking arm in New York. Liu, who can usually be found in well-tailored (but never tight) black Prada and Dolce & Gabbana skirt suits during office hours, sets such a good example that the bank tapped her to run seminars on professional dressing. She points to a recent episode of the TV drama Dirty Sexy Money in which the actress Lucy Liu (no relation), who depicts a powerful attorney, wears a spate of overtly suggestive suits. “In reality I don't think that is the signal you want to send to your clients,” says Citibank's Liu.
The same can be said for medical drama House, in which Cuddy, the hospital administrator played by actress Lisa Edelstein, is routinely dressed in 4in heels and low-cut blouses. “The skirts cling to her behind, the jackets cling to her bosom,” laments Barbara Ruelens, a UK-based wardrobe consultant with a roster of high-powered female clients.
Of course, TV wardrobe stylists have to take into account not only what can be considered suitable office attire but also how the audience is supposed to perceive the character. Take Dr Faith Wolper, a therapist played by Brooke Shields on Nip/Tuck. Lou Eyrich, costume designer on the series, says Shields' role as a romantic interest on the show demanded clothes in rich hues, satin blouses and skirts, and high heels that highlighted her legs. “The trick was making her sexy but professional,” says Eyrich.
All of which is fine for Shields (who also appears in Lipstick Jungle) but what about the rest of us? Should we take our cues from these TV counterparts?
The answer may depend on what industry you work in, says Johanna Waterous. “You don't have to look like a man but you do have to look like you mean business.”
.....................
What you can learn from TV's best-dressed women
Lipstick Jungle
What they wear: movie executive Wendy Healy (Brooke Shields) dresses in classic blouses and draped pieces. Magazine editor Nico Reilly (Kim Raver) vamps it up in form-fitting sheath dresses. Fashion designer Victory Ford's (Lindsay Price) flirty ensembles include lots of ruffles, layers and bright colours.
What's worth taking away: the statement jewellery.
What's not: bright colours look great on TV but may be too distracting for some offices.
Nip/Tuck
What they wear: child psychiatrist and author Dr Erica Noughton (Vanessa Redgrave) wears draped clothing in soothing colours and flats or kitten heels. Psychiatrist Dr Faith Wolper (Brooke Shields) dons silky blouses in jewel tones, with high heels and trumpet skirts.
What's worth taking away: fit matters. Make sure yours is just right.
What's not: black leather trousers on an anaesthetist would not inspire confidence.
Dirty Sexy Money
What they wear: lawyer Nola Lyons (Lucy Liu) wears tight-fitting suits with serious heels.
What's worth taking away: luxurious fabrics that look rich.
What's not: save the heels for cocktail hour.
The Office
What they wear: receptionist Pam Beesly (Jenna Fischer) wears pastel twinsets while administrative assistant Angela Martin (Angela Kinsey) chooses prim high-necked blouses.
What's worth taking away: colour lovers can get their fix with pastels.
What's not: these girls don't usually wear jackets but should.
House
What they wear: Dr Lisa Cuddy (Lisa Edelstein) wears fitted designer skirt suits with low-cut tops and high heels. Dr Allison Cameron (Jennifer Morrison) favours neutral-coloured sweaters and trousers.
What's worth taking away: a little femininity (but not too much!) in the workplace is OK.
What's not: cleavage-revealing tops and jackets.
Damages
What they wear: dark or neutral suits with freshly-pressed button-down blouses for litigator Patty Hewes (Glenn Close). Law firm associate Ellen Parsons (Rose Byrne) wears skirt suits and conservative, dark coloured dresses.
What's worth taking away: button-down shirts are both chic and appropriate as long as they aren't too unbuttoned.
What's not: navy pinstripes can look harsh. Wear with caution.