The partnership of Edward Steichen and Marion Morehouse changed the course of fashion photography. As chief photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair, Steichen propelled both titles into the age of modernism. And they came no more modern and streamlined than model Marion Morehouse, with her sleek head, attenuated limbs and ramrod back, all accentuated by Steichen’s dramatic lighting. At a stroke, his predecessor Baron de Meyer’s soft-focus aesthetic looked outmoded and trivial. Vogue’s proprietor Condé Nast told Steichen: “Every woman de Meyer photographs looks like a model. You make every model look like a woman.”
爱德华•史泰钦(Edward Steichen)与玛丽安•穆尔豪斯(Marion Morehouse)的合作改变了时尚摄影的发展轨道。作为《Vogue》与《名利场》(Vanity Fair)的首席摄影师,史泰钦让两本杂志迈入了现代主义时期。但它们的现代感和流线感都比不过模特玛丽安•穆尔豪斯,她的头部线条圆润、四肢修长、背部笔直,史泰钦的用光又进一步强化了这些特点。转眼之间,史泰钦前任德迈耶男爵(Baron de Meyer)的柔焦美学就变得过时而又不值一提。Vogue的老板康泰•纳仕(Condé Nast)曾对史泰钦说:“德迈耶镜头下的每个女人看上去都像模特。而你让每个模特看上去都像女人。”