乐尚街

He feels pretty: why menswear is borrowing from the girls
时髦男装都用“女性面料”


蕾丝、印花丝绸、织绵、天鹅绒等装饰性强的奢华面料以前被认为是女装专用的,但如今被广泛用在时髦男装上。

Does fabric have an inherent gender? As menswear designers continue to surprise with their use of lace, floral silk, chiffon and bouclé, what does the use of textiles more commonly associated with womenswear mean? These materials aren’t merely attention-seeking runway showpieces: they are at the core of many collections. So is it a case of novelty, subversion or part of a complex shift towards gender-neutral fashion?

面料分性别吗?男装设计师不断采用透孔织品、印花丝绸、薄绸以及仿羔羊呢(bouclé)等面料设计男装,让时尚界备感惊诧,他们用这些女装常用面料到底想干什么?这些面料不仅仅是T型台上万众瞩目的对象,还是众多时装的根本所在。那么这到底是标新立异、全盘颠覆还是仅仅只是渐趋转向中性时装的个案?

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