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Viral TikTok fashion trends pose new threat to fast fashion’s leaders

The retailers quickest at bringing popular designs to market are grabbing more market share

They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. That is not much comfort to the luxury fashion groups that have been battling counterfeit handbags made in China for decades. But at least now they have some company.Historically, high-end designer brands have been the ones that have had to fight off replicas from China. But the latest string of lawsuits concerning pirated products have been from a list of less obvious companies, including fast fashion groups Uniqlo and H&M.

A massively popular mini bag by Uniqlo that sells for Y1,500 ($10) in Japan is at the centre of the latest legal dispute. Uniqlo, part of Japanese fashion group Fast Retailing, last month sued Chinese fast-fashion retailer Shein in Japan. Uniqlo accused Shein of copying a Round Mini Shoulder bag last month, heralding a new phase in the battle against Chinese counterfeits.

Shein, known for its $10 dresses and $5 tops, is hardly a new entrant. It has been around since 2008. Its clothes and bags were not seen as a threat to the world’s fast fashion groups for most of that time. Shein was after a different customer: its quality and designs were seen to lag behind Zara and H&M. 

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