At the I Fresh Market in New York’s Sunset Park, a working-class neighbourhood in Brooklyn, Lily Leong picked up a bundle of spring onions, inspected the label, and put them down again.
“These used to be three for $1,” she said, dropping them back into the produce bin where a sign priced them at $1.99. As for beef: “Oh my God,” she exclaimed, “everything is very expensive”.
Leong’s experience increasingly chimes with that of food shoppers around the world — be it Brazil, France, Russia or along Brooklyn’s Eighth Avenue, where crates and baskets of fresh produce stand in front of the rows of stores.
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