Wandering through history
Central Beijing was once a warren of courtyard houses and narrow interconnected alleyways, known as hutongs, which have been progressively demolished to make way for wide boulevards and ring roads. But while old gable-ended concave roofs have gradually been displaced by skyscrapers, it is precisely within these dwindling districts that the best atmosphere is retained.
Gulou, the most central of these hutong neighbourhoods, is named for the tower at its centre.
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