For years, I’ve assumed that surfing is something that other people do. Younger, fitter, people. People who look good in neoprene and have highly developed upper-body strength. In oceans around the world, I’ve swum around surfers, and past them. I’ve observed the mating rituals of surfer dudes and surfer dudettes — the specialised language and elaborate signalling behaviours. And I have bought into the surfing myth: that it is a tough sport for fearless people where only the strong survive.
多年来，我一直以为冲浪是别人玩的运动。它适合身体强壮的年轻人、适合穿上潜水服后形象好，而且上肢力量特别大的人。在manbetx app苹果 各大洋，我曾在冲浪者周围游过泳，也曾从他们旁边游过。我也曾仔细观察过男女配对的冲浪动作——具有专门的形体语言与复杂的信息传递行为方式。于是，我对冲浪形成了错误看法：它是无畏者的极限运动，只有身强力壮的人方能胜任。
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