It is a weekday lunchtime and I am sitting in a restaurant over a plate of pasta. It is not just any old pasta. There is a smooth layer of tiny, curling macaroni, resting within the golden sheen of a meaty reduced jus, and laid across the top are various plush accessories. This is the “coquillette cooked like risotto” with “bone marrow and Prunier Oscietra caviar”, served to me at Pavyllon, inside London’s Four Seasons hotel by Hyde Park Corner. It belongs to uber chef Yannick Alléno who has 17 Michelin stars worldwide, one of which is held here. The price: £49, for what turns out to be just a single layer of macaroni in the flat plate’s circular well. It is, to be fair, utterly delicious. Every tiny spoonful is rich and sticky and salty, the soft bone marrow lubricating the tiny al dente tubes, the caviar bringing bursts of brine and surf. But however fabulous it might be, and however luxurious, it really isn’t much pasta.
工作日的午餐时分，我坐在餐厅里，面前是一盘意大利面，但这可并非寻常面食：细腻卷曲的小通心粉铺成薄薄一层，安卧在金黄油亮、以肉汁熬浓的酱底中，顶上则点缀着多款华丽配料。这道“像烩饭般烹煮的 coquillette”配“骨髓与 Prunier Oscietra 鱼子酱”，出自伦敦海德公园角四季酒店 Pavyllon餐厅，背后主理的是手握manbetx app苹果 17颗米其林星的大厨 雅尼克•阿莱诺 (Yannick Alléno)，其中一颗星就授予了此地。售价 49 英镑，端上桌却只是扁平餐盘中央浅坑里的薄薄一层通心粉。必须承认，它味道美妙：每一小勺都浓醇、黏稠而带咸鲜，柔滑骨髓为筋道的小通心粉添上润泽，鱼子酱迸发出海水般的鲜咸。但再怎么精致奢华，说到底，通心粉的分量确实寥寥。