FT商学院

Wine is better with age — so why sell it so young?
葡萄酒越陈越香——为何要这么早出售?

From Rioja to the Rhône, a growing number of producers and merchants are holding back bottles until time has made its mark
从里奥哈到罗讷,越来越多的生产商和酒商选择暂缓上市,直到时间留下印记。

Wine is one of the few things we buy that can benefit from age, yet how many wines are sold by their makers at anything like their peak? I can understand the need for cash flow and all that, an instinct that is most evident in Bordeaux’s precocious annual en primeur campaign (from which the Pinault family’s first growth Ch Latour notably withdrew in 2012). But I do wish more producers would hold back a proportion, however small, of their longer-lived wines for a late release.

葡萄酒是我们购买的为数不多能够从陈年中获益的东西之一。然而,酒庄酿造的葡萄酒中,又有多少会在接近最佳适饮期时才出售?我理解酒庄需要现金流,诸如此类;这种本能在波尔多(Bordeaux)每年早早启动的期酒销售活动中表现得最为明显(皮诺家族(Pinault)旗下的一级庄拉图酒庄(Château Latour)便于2012年退出了这一销售活动)。但我确实希望有更多生产商能留下一小部分——哪怕比例很小——那些更适合长期陈年的葡萄酒,待日后再发售。

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