海鲜

Let them eat lobster — it was never the food of kings
龙虾该不该这么贵?


《FT周末杂志》专栏作家海沃德:远在制冷技术让分销鲜鱼变为可能之前,龙虾和牡蛎就在为人类提供新鲜蛋白质。当年,这两种海鲜常被视为工业化城市中穷人的食物。

Today we regard the oyster and lobster as luxury foods, but it has not always been so. Oysters have been commercially farmed since the time of the Romans and have a remarkable talent: when collected, they close their watertight shells, trapping seawater inside. This useful skill doubtless evolved so they could survive being beached at low tide. But it meant that oysters could be shovelled into a barrel, carted to a city, and left under a bar — sometimes for weeks — while remaining alive and fresh.

今天,牡蛎和龙虾被视为奢侈的食物,但情况并非一直如此。从罗马时代起,人们就一直对牡蛎进行商业化养殖。牡蛎有一种非凡的本领:当被采集的时候,它们会将自己的外壳闭合得滴水不漏,将海水封存在里面。这种有用的技能无疑是为了在退潮搁浅时存活下来而进化出来的。但这也意味着人们可以把牡蛎铲进桶里,用车运往城市并放在酒吧里——有时一放就是几星期——而牡蛎在此期间一直保持鲜活。

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