People used to go to fashion shows to see the clothes; now they go to be seen wearing them. The practice of documenting “street style” evolved in the 1980s, when style magazines such as i-D began chronicling people out and about. Today though, the stars of the scene don’t pound pavements hoping to be snapped on the street; they exit chauffeur-driven cars to totter the five or six metres to the fashion show venues, often posing on their phone or chatting with a pal in a matching outfit. Neither do they wear thrift any more: these street stars are seen in the latest designer clothes, sometimes just hours after their catwalk debut. It’s good news for the labels; it’s even better news for those canny enough to monetise their penchant for clashing print or double denim.
观众过去到时装秀场就是为了欣赏时装,如今去的目的是希望显摆自己的行头。上世纪80年代,记录都市街头时尚开始起步,当时《i-D》之类的时尚杂志就开始记录街头巷尾年轻人的穿着行头。然而,如今的街拍对象出头露面的目的并非是成为摄影师的抓拍目标;他们在距离秀场举办地5、6米的地方走下专车,故意放慢脚步,经常自拍造型或是与身穿同样行头的好友闲聊。他们的穿着也不再寒酸:这些街拍明星往往身着最新款的名牌服装抛头露面,这些时装有时只比T型台上刚亮相的晚区区几个小时。这对于时尚品牌来说是福音,对于那些脑瓜灵光的时尚爱好者更是如此,他们利用自己青睐鲜明格纹印花装(clashing print)以及牛仔单品叠穿(double denim)的穿着方式而大获其利。