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The strange new economy of all-you-can-eat buffets

Red Lobster is in trouble but luxury feasts with unlimited steak and champagne are thriving
Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne, France, charges diners €52.90 for piles of haute cuisine. Clientele at luxury buffets are less likely to be focused on consuming enough to get a good deal

There is an old episode of The Simpsons in which Homer goes to the Frying Dutchman buffet and is thrown out after eating all of the shrimp, along with two plastic lobsters. “But the sign said, ‘All You Can Eat’,” he protests, and sues Sea Captain Horatio McCallister, the proprietor.

Red Lobster was not watching, to judge by its current troubles. The US chain has considered Chapter 11 bankruptcy after disastrously putting a $20 “Endless Shrimp” option on its menu last year and making losses by attracting too many Homers. Buffet-style restaurants are constantly in danger of having their all-you-can-eat offers being taken literally.

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