Last week, I sat at a bar in an airport in Paris and ate seven aeroplane meals in a row. The dishes arrived wrapped in tin foil, but this was not plane food as I have previously experienced it: there was caviar and yuzu sponge and a tiny French crêpe stuffed with whipped cream. The only real clue this was food designed to be eaten in the air was that it remained eerily still. At one point, a chef handed me a tomato and mozzarella salad and invited me to “shake the plate”. I shook, gently at first and then violently, but nothing moved. The chef looked delighted. Every meal was turbulence-proof.
不久前，我坐在巴黎机场的一个酒吧里，连续吃了七顿飞机餐。上菜时用锡纸包着，但这不是我以前吃过的那种飞机餐：里面有鱼子酱和柚子海绵蛋糕，还有一块小小的鲜奶油馅法式可丽饼。对于这些食物是专为在飞机上食用而设计的，唯一真正的线索是它们保持了诡异的静止状态。有一次，一位厨师递给我一份番茄和马苏里拉奶酪沙拉，并邀请我“摇一下盘子”。我摇了，起初很轻地摇，然后剧烈地摇，但里面的东西纹丝不动。厨师看起来很高兴。每份食物都是防空中湍流的。