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How Michelin stars explain the world

The west’s relative loss of power is reflected in fine dining
Chef Ayo Adeyemi plates up at the west African restaurant Akoko in London’s Fitzrovia

Akoko, a west African restaurant in Fitzrovia, receives its first Michelin star. Seeing the news, I dig around for my birth certificate to double-check something. Yeah, thought so. “General Hospital, Akoko.” We did it!

Here is another thought. In the past, a starred restaurant was somewhere that served French- or Italian-anchored cuisine. Japanese then penetrated that rarefied club. Notice the theme here. All high-income countries. All western or western-allied. When a challenger broke up their gastronomic triopoly, it came from within the OECD: Nordic, Korean, Basque, modern British, modern American, modern Australian. In fine dining, as in geopolitics, the west set the terms.

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