谁知盘中餐

Three of Hong Kong's top female chefs
拜访三位香港顶尖女主厨和她们的风味文化


放眼现今的香港餐饮行业,会发现不少技艺非凡、富有才华的主厨都是女性。本文邀你认识她们之中的三位顶尖选手。

Ask Michelle Garnaut, the pioneering Australian chef and restaurateur, how much the Hong Kong dining scene has evolved, particularly from the point of view of female chefs, since she opened M at the Fringe — the first independent fine-dining restaurant outside a hotel in the city — in 1989. You can expect by way of response a very wry, very worldly, very expressive snort. “Back then, cooking wasn’t even seen as a proper job,” she says. “Virtually no women were involved. I had one talented young female chef — a local — who quit to become a manager at KFC because her parents thought that any managerial role was more respectable than being a chef.”

问问澳大利亚主厨和餐厅老板的先驱米歇尔•加诺特(Michelle Garnaut),自1989年她开设了香港第一家酒店外独立高级餐厅M at the Fringe以来,香港的餐饮界发生了多大的变化,尤其是从女主厨的角度来看。作为回应,你可以期待她非常揶揄、非常世故、非常意味深长的哼声。“那时候,烹饪甚至不被视为正经工作。”她说,“实际上没有女性做厨师。我认识一位才华横溢的年轻女厨师——一个当地人——辞职去了肯德基(KFC)当经理,因为她父母认为任何管理职位都比当厨师更受人尊敬。”

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