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Zürich – Europe’s new capital of cool
苏黎世:欧洲的新酷之都

Think Switzerland’s biggest city is slick, staid, bourgeois and... a bit boring? Think again
你以为瑞士最大的城市是华而不实、古板、中产阶级和……有点无聊?再想想。

A quiet weekend afternoon in Zürich. At the Galerie Gmurzynska on the city’s central Paradeplatz, an exhibition devoted to Picasso hangs along the gallery’s undulating Zaha Hadid-designed walls. Suddenly a smartly dressed woman dashes in. “Excuse me, is that for sale?” she asks the young man at reception, pointing to a Picasso drawing as though enquiring after a lamb chop. Sadly not, he replies – it’s already sold – and she’s out of the door with a shrug. I ask the receptionist if this happens very often. Well, you have to remember, he replies politely, we’re opposite places like that – gesturing to the vast headquarters of a major Swiss bank. I take it as a yes.

苏黎世的一个安静的周末下午。在位于城市中心游行广场(Paradeplatz)的格穆尔齐恩斯卡画廊(Galerie Gmurzynska),在画廊起伏的扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)设计的墙壁上,悬挂着一个专门介绍毕加索的展览。突然,一个衣着光鲜的女人冲了进来。她指着一幅毕加索的画作问接待处的年轻人,就像在询问羊排一样。遗憾的是,他回答说已经卖掉了,然后她耸耸肩就出了门。我问接待员这种情况是否经常发生。他礼貌地回答说,你必须记住,我们对面就是这样的地方——指着一家大型瑞士银行的总部大楼。我认为这是个肯定的答案。

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