I recently interviewed a mâitre d’ in a London restaurant. Unlike many of his tribe who seem to be hired for looking imposing in a suit and sneering to a high degree of competence, this one had actually trained, at a catering college, several decades ago. Talk turned, as it often does, to the erosion of standards. “Of course,” he said, by way of emphasis, “when I trained we had Fuller’s Guéridon & Lamp Cookery as a set book.”
我最近采访了伦敦某餐厅领班。与很多同行（这一行从业者工作时衣冠楚楚，咄咄逼人，甚至不屑一顾，显得能力超群）迥异的是，这位仁兄实际上几十年前曾受过餐饮业科班训练。我与他聊着聊着，话题就不可避免地转向了如今每况愈下的服务水准。“当然，”他强调说，“本人上餐饮学校时，富勒(Fuller)的《小推车与酒精灯烹饪课》(Guéridon & Lamp Cookery)可是必修教材。”
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